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The Home Inspection process can be a stressful time for any home buyer.  My goal is to make this time stress free and smooth as possible for you and your real estate agent.  I am writing this piece to prep you as the buyer for your home inspection.

Let’s assume that you have finally found “The One” and your offer has been accepted.  Your next step is to find an inspector and get your inspection scheduled.

  1. Scheduling the Inspection.  Your agent should be there so communicate with them and your inspector to make sure you pick a day and time that works for everyone (you most of all). Your agent has done many of these, and having them with you is a great resource.  They will help you along the way if anything comes up.  Couples should BOTH be there, it makes things much easier and keeps everyone on the same page.  You normally have 7-14 days to do your inspections, this is called your “due diligence period”.
  2. Do you want to test the water?  If you have a well you MOST DEFINITELY want a water test.  If  you have an FHA or VA loan and your home has a well, you may be required to get a test.  It is best to know what condition your water is in before you start drinking it. “Buy a filter or be a filter…” I hear that saying a lot.  There are many different contaminants that can get in your water.   Here’s more info about Water Quality and contaminants. 
  3. Radon air testing?  The EPA requires a 48 hour minimum test because radon levels can fluctuate from hour to hour.  Things like temperature and humidity can affect the levels. Knox Home Inspections uses specialized equipment to get your results immediately after the required 48 hours.  Our equipment will give you the most accurate reading possible with over 200 data points. Other inspectors may use a lab which can take 2-3 days longer.  Let us know and we can set the test ahead of time saving you and your agent valuable time.  More info about Radon Air right here.
  4. Septic Evaluation?  It is a CRAPPY job, literally.  We leave that to the septic evaluation companies that are licensed specifically for that.  If you want a septic evaluation we can coordinate with a few qualified companies to get it done at the same time as your inspection.  They will provide you a separate report that will show you more than you probably want to know about what goes down the toilet.
  5. Inspection Day.  Your inspection will take 2-3 hours depending on the size and condition of the home.  Make sure you block off enough time to be present the whole time.  You will be glad that you did.  You are about to learn A LOT about your new home.
  6. Bring a Tape Measure.  Bring your camera too.  The inspection is a great time to take your own pictures of the rooms and to measure for things like fridges, couches, beds, dressers, etc.  Your inspection report will have a bunch of pictures, but not the kind that will help you plan out your new home office layout.
  7. Dress For Success.  Wear something comfortable and that you don’t mind getting dirty.  Sneakers or boots are good.  Dress warm or bring an extra layer.  The weather doesn’t always cooperate and sometimes the houses can be cold if they nobody is living there.

The next 2 blogs will focus on the DURING and AFTER parts of the inspection process so look out for those very soon.  Thank you for reading and feel free to comment.  I love feedback and will edit this blog if anything good comes up.  For updates and more information connect with us on Facebook right here!

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YES!

End of blog.

Jk, here are some reasons why you absolutely should inspect your potential new condo.

Condos can be a great option for first time home buyers, or people that don’t want to mow the lawn, or maintain a pool, etc.  There are many benefits to owning a condo, there are also some cons.  Every condo association has a set of rules, and fees.  You will want to get a hold of these documents before putting in an offer on your new condo.  Having a good real estate agent will help a lot with this process.

The rules are laid out in what is called a Master Deed, or the Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions (CC&R).  The master deed will lay out how the condo association is governed and the policies for how things run.  The CC&R will lay out rules ranging from: Pets, parking, outdoor grills, hanging laundry, changing exterior designs, roofing, maintenance, quiet hours, etc.  There can be many rules.

With almost all Condos there are monthly fees.  These fees go into the budget for maintaining certain things around the common areas of the condos.  Landscaping, plowing, roof replacement, decks, balconies, siding, etc.  Most associations want the units to all look great which will keep the value of the units up and the tenants happy.  If the roof on one condo has seen the end of it’s days, the association will replace it and use the money from everyones monthly fees to do it.  This can be a great thing for a condo owner.  If the roof leaks and damages the inside of your attic and the insulation, most of the time that is covered.  However, if the pipes burst in your upstairs bathroom and damage the ceiling in your kitchen, that is not the responsibility of the Condo association.  This is why you want a home inspection.  Having an inspection will help you to determine what is and is NOT covered by the HOA and what issues may be inside your condo, or what issues may come up in the future.  Repairs are not a matter of if, but when.

Here is a leak that was found inside a Condo using thermal imaging.  

Without thermal imaging this leak would never have been seen, it cam from the refrigerator water line from the unit up above.  Without an inspection this buyer could have bought this unit and walked into a condo with an active leak above head and a bill to fix it right away.

Knowing what is and is not covered by the HOA (Home Owners Association) is not the job of a home inspector.  A good inspector will inspect the roof of a condo and the common areas associated with the unit being inspected.  Knox Home Inspections treats a condo the same as any other house.

Here’s an example…

 

That is the main entrance to a 6 unit, garden style condo building.  There are 2 electric code violations going on here and these people walk by, and over it every day.  The junction box directly below the door should not be in an area that has foot traffic, it should be off to the right and out of the walkway.  This is for safety.  The second violation is the circuit that is running into the gutter and up to the 3rd story flood light above.  The gutter is acting as a conduit for the circuit, it is also draining all of the water from the roof above.  Water and electricity DO NOT mix.  This whole situation should be re configured by an electrician ASAP.  This is a tricky situation for my client who is buying this unit.  My recommendation to them was to have this corrected by a professional.  Is this the responsibility of the buyer or the HOA?  That is where you want to read all of that paperwork we mentioned above and determine what to do from that.

Some HOA’s have zero fees.  Maintenance on these units can fall on the owners themselves and can be tricky with repairs and the cost of those repairs.  See the picture below of a Condex split down the middle.

All new vinyl siding on the right, and original wood siding on the left that is peeling badly.  The roof has been replaced on the right side and they wove it right into the old side on the left.  There is a lot of moss and lichen on the left side and that whole side needs to be replaced.  Also the dryer vent has no cover on it, it’s between the AC unit that is leaning over and the bulkhead.  That is direct access for critters and moisture, which can lead to damage.  The deck on the left is the original wood and the deck on the right is all new Trex material and is very nice.  This is clearly a situation where the HOA does not cover repairs on the exterior of the units.  Again you must read the CC&R to determine what is an is not covered for repairs.  Inspecting this unit was tricky because we could not inspect the other half of the house.  All we could do was inform them of what was seen from the outside and how that may effect there side.

Arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible before buying your condo.  Get a copy of all of the documents you can and read them all.  And don’t forget the home inspection…

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If your water comes from a well ANYWHERE in New Hampshire you should do a water quality test before purchasing.  Water quality is so important.  Poor water quality is a health concern and a problem for the pipes and systems of your home.  Knox Home Inspections is here to help.

We will test your water for you even if you are not buying a home, just give us a call and we will come right over.  The test only takes 1-2 days and the knowledge of what you are drinking is worth way more than the cost of the test.

What to Test for?

Total Coliform & E.coli Bacteria 

The organisms in the total coliform group are called indicator organisms. That is, if present, they indicate that there is a possibility, but not a certainty, that disease organisms may also be present in the water. When absent there is a very low probability of disease organisms being present in the water. The ability of the total coliform test to reliably predict the bacterial safety of water relative to the hundreds of possible diseases that might be present is critical since it is impossible, in a practical sense, to check separately for every disease organism directly on a monthly or quarterly basis. The presence of only Total Coliform generally does not imply an imminent health risk but does require an analysis of all water systems facilities and their operation to determine how these organisms entered the water system. Escherichia Coli (E.coli). This is a specific species (subgroup) within the coliform family. They originate only in the intestines of animals and humans. They have a relatively short life span compared to more general Total Coliform. Their presence indicates a strong likelihood that human or animal wastes are entering the water system, and have a much higher likelihood of causing illness.

Iron & Manganese (Limits = 0.3 & 0.05 mg/l respectively)

Iron and manganese occur naturally in New England’s geology. They dissolve into groundwater as acidic rainfall percolates through the soil and rock. In higher concentrations, they can cause staining on laundry and water fixtures Elevated concentrations can also cause the water to have a metallic or vinyl type taste in the water Their appearance can also give an oily “crusty” sheen to the water’s surface. The non-health related iron bacteria can clog strainers, pumps, and valves.

NH Department of Environmental Services (DES) is in the process of establishing an enforceable standard of 0.3 mg/L for manganese for all NH public water systems. The effective date is currently July 1, 2022. EPA, at present, has not set health standards for either iron or manganese in drinking water, both are considered aesthetic concerns only.

Hardness

The presence or absence of conventional hardness in drinking water is not known to pose a health risk to users. Hardness is normally considered an aesthetic water quality factor. The presence of some dissolved mineral material in drinking water is typically what gives the water its characteristic and pleasant “taste”. At higher concentrations however, hardness creates the following consumer problems:

  1. Produces white mineral deposits on tubs, showers, and dishes
  2. Reduces the efficiency of devices that heat water. As hardness deposits build in thickness,

    they act like insulation, reducing heat transfer.

  3. Can reduce the ability of soaps to create suds, thus reducing the efficiency of cleaning

    ability. Can cause problems with laundry.

Nitrate & Nitrite Nitrogen (Limits = 10.0 & 1.0 mg/l respectively)

Nitrate is a component in fertilizer, and both nitrate/nitrite are found in sewage and sanitary wastes from humans and animals. Nitrate/nitrite concentrations are not normally high in New England’s wells or surface waters. When elevated, the surrounding area is often heavily developed, used for agricultural purposes, or subject to heavy fertilization. Excessive levels of these nitrogen compounds in drinking water have caused serious illness and sometimes death in infants under six months of age. Symptoms include shortness of breath and blueness of the skin (methemoglobinemia).

Sodium & Chloride (Limit Chloride = 250 mg/l )

The compound known as “salt” consists of the elements sodium and chloride. Substantially higher levels of Sodium and Chloride tend to imply contamination by activities of man including road salt storage, use of road salts, and discharges from water softeners. Typical background levels of Sodium and Chloride for pristine locations in New England’s are generally less than 15 mg/L and 30 mg/L respectively.

pH (Acceptable Range = 6.5 – 8.5)

The pH of water is a measure of its acidity or alkalinity. A low pH indicates acidic water, which is therefore likely to be corrosive to household plumbing such as copper pipes. In older homes (prior to mid to late 1980’s) the plumbing may also contain Lead in the soldered joints. Corrosive water will dissolve these metals from the plumbing into the water. Dissolved Copper & Lead in drinking water can be a health concern, and can also be a maintenance concern as the water corrodes the plumbing in the home eventually causing water leaks.

Lead & Copper (Limits = 0.015 & 1.3 mg/l respectively)

Found in water with corrosive tendencies (see pH). There is an extremely low occurrence of naturally occurring lead & copper in water. It is nearly always from plumbing systems with copper lines and/or lead solder. Levels are highest after water has been stagnant in the pipes. The recommended method for testing of Lead & Copper when plumbing is a concern is to sample water after it has been sitting in the pipes for 6 – 10 hours, without running the water at all prior to filling the bottle. This is called a “first draw” and simulates a worst case test.

Radioactivity (Limit = 15 pCi/L for Gross Alpha)

New England’s bedrock contains naturally occurring radioactivity. A few examples include Radon, Radium 226, Radium 228 and Uranium. Radon is a gas (see separate description); the others are minerals. The basic test to determine the total radioactivity from all these sources is Gross Alpha.

Alkalinity: A measure of water’s acid neutralizing capacity. A low alkalinity in combination with low hardness may increase corrosive tendencies, especially in water that already has a pH below or at the low end of the acceptable range.

Arsenic (NH Limit = 0.005 mg/l EPA Limit 0.010 mg/l)

Arsenic occurs naturally in New England. In fact, arsenic was mined commercially in New England during the 1800s. Arsenic also occurs as a result of human activities. Activities that could have left arsenic residuals include apple orchard spraying and coal ash disposal. Generally it is not possible to predict if a well will have elevated arsenic. Arsenic has no smell, taste or coloration when dissolved in water, even at high concentrations. Arsenic has been classified by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as a human carcinogen (cancer causing agent). Long term exposure to arsenic has been linked to cancer, cardiovascular disease, immunological disorders, diabetes and other medical issues. The NH DES has established a NH Maximum Contaminant Level (MCL) for arsenic of 0.005 mg/l, which took effect for July 1, 2021 for all NH public water systems. The federal EPA Safe Drinking Water Act MCL for arsenic is 0.010 mg/l. NH DES recommends that at least two tests be processed before concluding the well’s arsenic concentration, as well water quality can change due to many factors.

Radon (No EPA regulated limit)
IMPORTANT NOTE: Radon levels may test significantly different when collected from a well that is not in a normal pattern of use, compared to Radon levels from the same well when in normal daily use.
Radon gas is normally found in all well water. Bedrock wells typically have much higher levels then dug or point wells. The most significant concern is the inhalation of Radon from the air. Radon typically enters air via two common pathways:

  1. Migration (up from the soil) into the house air through cracks and/or other openings in the foundation.
  2. Release of dissolved radon gas into the air from water usage in the home.

In New England’s, the migration of radon up from the soil contributes the largest percent of radon found in the average home. Radon from a groundwater type water supply source, particularly a bedrock (artesian, drilled) well, contributes the next largest percentage of radon in the home. The US EPA has set an advisory “action level” of 4 pCi/L for radon gas in indoor air. Studies show that high levels of radon gas in the air increase the risk of developing lung cancer. At present there is no federal or state regulated standard for radon in drinking water. In 2016, the NH DES and the Maine Radon Program recommended that private wells with radon concentrations at or above 10,000 pCi/L be treated to reduce radon levels. Treatment for water with concentrations between 2000 and 10,000 pCi/L (in NH), or 4000 and 10,000 (in ME), may be advisable if the air concentrations in the home exceed 4 pCi/L. The EPA has proposed a limit of 4000 pCi/L, but this has never been enacted. Massachusetts recommends 10,000 pCi/L and V ermont 4,000 pCi/L. A useful equation developed by the EPA to determine the seriousness of Radon in water is that 1 pCi/L of Radon will develop in air for every 10,000 pCi/L in water.

Fluoride (Limit = 2.0/4.0 mg/l secondary/primary)

Fluoride occurs naturally in New England’s bedrock. Fluoride has no taste, color or odor. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) have recommended 1.0 to 1.2 milligrams per liter (mg/L) as the optimum beneficial concentration of fluoride in drinking water for dental protection. In the range of 2.0-4.0 mg/L of fluoride, staining of tooth enamel is possible. At concentrations above 4.0 mg/L, studies have shown the possibility of skeletal fluorosis as well as the staining of teeth.

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s)

Volatile Organic Chemicals (VOCs) are a class of chemicals that are carbon containing and vaporize easily into air at normal air temperatures. VOCs are found in a variety of commercial, industrial, and residential products, including gasoline, solvents, cleaners, degreasers, paints, inks and dyes. Many of these compounds are also known human carcinogens. Benzene, for example, may enter groundwater from gasoline or oil spills on the ground surface. Other examples of commonly detected VOCs are trichloroethylene, used in septic system cleaners; and tetrachloroethylene, used in the dry-cleaning industry. MtBE is the abbreviation for the compound “methyl tertiary butyl ether”. This compound is a former addititive to gasoline.The NH. Department of Health and Human Services developed a health-based drinking water standard for MtBE of 13 micrograms per liter (ug/L).
Sulfide (Rotten Egg Odor) Sulfide can be formed naturally as a by-product of the decomposition of organic material possibly aided by the presence of non-hazardous sulfur reducing bacteria, or by chemical reactions of soil and bedrock minerals containing sulfur. At the concentrations typically found in drinking water, it is not hazardous to health. It is also important to note that the odor threshold for sulfide is considerably lower than the point at which our laboratory test detects it. So you may smell it before we can find it.

Conductivity: A very basic test measuring the total dissolved mineral content of water. Includes all individual minerals separately listed on this page.

Per- and Polyfluoralkyl Substances (PFAS)
(NH Limits PFOA=12 ng/L, PFOS=15 ng/L, PFNA=11 ng/L, PFHxS = 18 ng/L) PFAS are a group of various man-made compounds. These chemicals include PFOA, PFOS, and other chemicals which are used in the manufacturing of many every day products. Examples of products containing PFAS include food packaging, fire fighting foam, non-stick pans, stain resistant fabrics, microwave popcorn bags, and numerous other common household products. The two most studied compounds of the full list of PFAS chemicals are PFOS and PFOA, which have been given a combined limit of 70 ng/L by the EPA.

For any questions about water testing call anytime, for pricing click the price list below.

2019 Price List

More Water Quality Information

For more information check out the NHDES website about PFOA’s and check out Nelson Analytical’s website for more information about water quality.

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I get to see a lot of different houses and a lot of different components in those houses. I don’t look at peoples “stuff”, like their TV, radios, speakers, computers or stuff like that because they aren’t a part of the HOME. These things will be gone when the house is sold, but below are things that should stay because they are installed INTO the property.  Here are a few of my favorite examples that I have seen and that are sweet additions to any home.


1. USB Outlets. Think about how many of your electronic devices use a USB to charge up. My house has about 20. Cell phone, laptop, iPad, iPod, baby monitor, Kindle, blu tooth speakers, screwdriver, flashlight, video game controllers, and on and on. These outlets are fantastic and give you more flexibility as to where you can plug in your stuff. There are many different makes and models but they are not too expensive, about $15-20 each.


2. Bathroom Fan with BluTooth Speakers. You need to have a bathroom fan anyways, so why not make it awesome?! This one is at Home Depot for $159. It does the job with 90 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and links wirelessly to your phone or tablet and streams your music while you shower. Also the fan is not too loud to compete with the music. It also has LED lights, white during the day and blue for night.


3. Snap Power Outlet Covers. They are your simple outlet cover, but also have an LED light on the bottom with a sensor to turn on when it gets dark. They are very efficient and don’t use much energy. The best part is that there is ZERO wiring involved. There are these little whisker thingies in the back that draw just enough power to run the light. All you do is screw in the center and thats it. No joke you can install them in 10-15 seconds. They sell other models too for switches and USB chargers. Check them out at Snappower.com


4. Nest Thermostat. No need to get up and change the thermostat. Also no need for Dad’s around the world to get up and check the thermostat to make sure someone didn’t change it!!! Dad’s just know when it’s been changed, we’ve had that technology for years.  The Nest Thermostat learns from your preferences and adjusts the temperature to match, saving you money on heating bills.  Plus you can sync it with Alexa or Google Home and never have to get up again.  You can change the temp from the couch, or from vacation in Mexico.  The Nest also has more options to turn your home into a true “Smart Home”.  $249 at Lowes.


5. Door Locks with Pass Code. I always suggest to new home buyers to change the locks, or at least get them re-keyed. It will give you peace of mind that there aren’t any keys out there to get into your house. Go one more and add the deadbolt with a Pass Code. Just seeing one of these might be enough to deter a potential thief. There are many different makes and models, the one below is by Schlage and they make a great product. This model is only $124.00 at Lowes.


6. Dimmer Switches. Nothing new here, these have been around for a long time. They are great for every room in the house. They cost more than a standard switch and also the bulbs cost more, but they are pretty sweet. Some of the fancier new ones also are wireless and can be controlled from your phone, you know, to set the mood, or whatever. The one below is only $12.99 at Lowes and even cheaper if you buy in bulk.7. Motion Lights. Again, nothing new here but it is great to see these on any home. They are a great addition for safety. Coming home late they can light up your walkway so you don’t trip and fall. If you are not at home and a potential burglar trips the light they will probably try and rob another home. Again there are many options available. My favorites have 2 or 3 bulbs that you can point in different directions and aim them where you want. The one above is only $60.

Any of these are a great addition to your home or potential new home. They are also a nice gift for Father’s day, hint hint. I enjoy pointing these out to my customers when I see them during inspections and they like seeing them too. Sometimes they don’t even know they are there until I find them.  As always if you are adding one of these to your home and are not comfortable installing yourself, hire a professional or call us and we can set you up with the right people.

Feel free to share and add any that you like on our Facebook page.

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Radon is a dangerous gas that comes from the decaying of Uranium in the ground. It is naturally a gas and can be inhaled, eventually leading to lung cancer. It is the second leading cause of lung cancer behind smoking and ahead of second hand smoke. Radon is especially dangerous in residential housing because it can concentrate in basements and crawlspaces. The scariest part is that it is odorless, colorless and tasteless. The ONLY way to know if you have Radon is to test specifically for it.  Radon can also be in your well water which can lead to higher levels in the air.  This blog focuses on radon in the air, for radon in the water read my water blog...

Knox Home Inspections uses the BEST radon measuring devices on the market.  These machines will give you much more data than any other Home Inspectors out there and your results will be available much quicker than our competition.  


In New Hampshire we have a higher concentration of Radon than in other parts of the country, especially Carroll County.  For this reason I recommend an air test in every house that I inspect.  Radon can be in all the houses in your neighborhood or in just a few, the only way to know if it is in your home is to have it tested by a professional.  The results will tell you the Radon level and you can decide if you need to mitigate or not.

The EPA recommends action be taken if you have over 4.0 pCi/L. I have performed a lot of Radon tests in New Hampshire and  keep very detailed records. The average Radon level in a basement with NO mitigation system is 5.2 pCi/L.  So some are higher and some are lower. The average radon level with a system in place is 1.2 pCi/L. These systems work, and they can save lives.

In 2016 alone I came to FIVE separate homes with Radon mitigation systems that were turned OFF! If you have a system in place it needs to be ON at all times. The fan does not use a lot of electricity, about the same as a bathroom fan and it should also be as quiet as one. If it is louder than a small fan you should replace the fan unit. The fans are around $125 a piece.

Radon mitigation is not as expensive as some people fear it is. A basic, full system normally starts around $1000. Depending on the layout of the house they can be installed easily. Here’s one that runs out the side of the basement: 

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The fan above is one of the systems I found that was OFF. Please make sure if you are buying a home that the system is ON before you even schedule a home inspection. I could not test this system that day because it would accomplish nothing. Instead the buyers Real Estate Agent had to contact the seller, get them to turn it on, and then I went back and did the test. This cost the home buyers valuable time during the closing process and was an unnecessary delay and added stress for everyone involved.

Knox Home Inspections is certified by the International Association of Certified Indoor Air Consultants for Advanced Radon Air Measurement. We guarantee an accurate Radon test for all of our customers for just $125. It is worth every penny to know that your home is free and clear of radon.

If you have any Radon Air questions feel free to contact us at anytime.

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That’s not a new Snapchat filter. That’s Thermal Imaging with a professional FLIR Infrared camera.  There are many different uses for an infrared camera like this.  It allows the user to capture differences in temperature, the dark purple is cold and the bright yellow is hot.  When choosing a Home Inspector make sure to choose one that uses this technology. Many areas of the home are inaccessible to the eye and without thermal imaging a lot of issues can go un checked.

This tool can help to identify air intrusion and extrusion, moisture intrusion, plumbing leaks, roof leaks, insulation gaps, overloaded electric circuits, HVAC leaks, and much more.  A quick scan with the thermal camera is a great addition to any Home Inspection.

Some people seem to think that a thermal camera can “see” through the wall or through clothing.  This is NOT true.  The camera captures radiation from whatever it is looking at. For example, thats me in the picture at the top.  It was a cold day and I took my jacket off and all the heat radiated off my body and was captured by the camera, but you can’t see through my shirt.

Above you can see a missing section of insulation in the wall and heat is escaping.  This day was very cold and the heat loss really popped off the camera screen.

From the inside of another house.  To get the best thermal images I turn the heat way up to get a better Delta T (Difference in Temperature).  Windows lose a lot of heat, but those cold spots creeping up the wall from the ground are moisture.  This is called “Rising Damp”.  Moisture rises up the siding and causes damage and possibly mold.

Lastly is a heat lamp in an attic directly above a bathroom.  There is so much heat it looks like it is on fire!  There is zero insulation around the lamp which is leaking very warm air into the cold attic.  Warm air + Cold Air = Moisture.  Not good for an attic without proper ventilation.

These are just a few of the things I have seen using Thermal Imaging.  I use the thermal camera on every home inspection because it allows me to see things that I could never have seen with my naked eyes.

Energy Efficiency is a breeze with a thermal camera.  You can hunt for heat loss and gaps in heat supply piping.  A quick scan of a home on  very cold or very warm day can narrow down areas where small improvements can make a big difference on the heating and electric bill.

If you have questions about thermal imaging just contact us and we will be glad to help.

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In 2005 dryer vents were responsible for about 14,000 house fires.  This is a shame because many could have been prevented with the proper connections, set up and regular cleaning.  Over time the lint from the dryer will build up inside the exhaust duct and can cause a fire.  One indication that the duct is becoming blocked is if your dryer heats up but the clothes inside are still damp when they are done.  This can indicate that the warm, moist air is being restricted and not leaving the dryer as it should.

vent fire

Most newer homes are set up with dryer safety in mind and easy access to clean, where some older homes the location and access is not ideal and it can be more difficult to clean.  You should clean the exhaust duct on a regular basis.  Disconnect the exhaust duct and stick a shop vacuum in there and reconnect after.

A few things that I look for when I am inspecting dryer vents:

Is the duct connected and go all the way outside?

Some ducts are not connected properly and some just come loose over time. Some ducts vent into a crawlspace or attic.  This will put that moist warm air into places where it can linger and lead to moisture issues and possibly mold.  You want the warm moist air to go OUTSIDE.  There can be backflow protection, but not a screen.  A screen will just catch all the lint and block up faster.

vent2

How long and how straight is the duct?

The duct should be as straight and as short as possible.  No longer than 25 feet.  Each 90 degree bend in the pipe reduces the total allowable distance by 5 feet.

What is the duct made of?

The duct should be METAL.  The duct should be smooth on the inside and not have any fasteners or screws going into it that could catch lint and cause a build up.

Lastly, do not connect 2 separate dryers to the same vent like this picture:

vent

If your laundry load really requires 2 separate dryers, please take the time and install another vent to the outside and run 2 separate exhaust ducts.  One for each dryer unit.  Or go to the Laundry Mat. 

For more information on Home Inspections contact us at: Knoxinspect.com

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After all the snow we have gotten this week it’s the perfect time to talk about ice dams.

What is a Dam?  A barrier constructed to hold back water and raise it’s level.

What is ice? Frozen water.

Why do Ice Dams form on roofs?  Heat leaking from the interior of the house raises the temperature of the roof and melts snow, the snow then falls down the roof to the eaves and soffit area where it is colder and freezes into ice.  This ice blocks the water coming down behind it and causes a reservoir of water to grow. This water can then seep through the shingles and into the house causing a leak.  Roofing and shingles are not designed to retain water on top.  They are designed to shed and repel water down and off the roof.  Here is the “textbook” picture:

icedam.jpg

Ice Dams are most common on the northern side of houses and also at the bottom of a roof valley.  Roofs with low slopes and wide overhangs are more prone to damming.

A good inspector will recognize the signs of an ice dam even in the summer when it is warm.  Stains on the ceiling and in the attic are a common sign.

If your roof dams up it is not the end of the world, there are several different options to prevent future dams, such as:

  • Improving attic insulation and ventilation
  • Adding eave protection
  • Adding electric cables.

Those are long term solutions.  The shortest solution is a roof shovel.  Use a long one and be careful.  Don’t get up on the roof if you don’t have too.  This can cause unnecessary damage and a much bigger problem than the one you had before.

For more information visit: Knoxinspect.com

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As a licensed home inspector part of my job is inspecting the electrical system of each house I am hired for.  That involves popping the panel and looking on the inside.  It is my favorite part of the job.  I get excited to see what is under there.  A dirty, crowded and messy panel can indicate other issues throughout the house.  However, a nice clean, organized and neat panel with everything labeled correctly is great to see and inspect.

What is a “double tap”?  This is an issue that I see in 90% of the houses that I inspect.  A double tap is simply 2 branch circuit wires that are connected to the same circuit breaker.  This can create too much load going into the breaker and cause the breaker to trip.  Each circuit breaker is supposed to have only one wire.

See it in the picture above?  It’s hard to see but here it is up close.

double-tap-blog-pic

However, some breakers are specifically designed to have 2.  It depends on the manufacturers instructions.  Also some “double taps” are perfectly fine.  A lot of the time it is just the doorbell wire, a low load wire that needs to get juice from somewhere and doesn’t over load the breaker.

The only way to know if you have a “double tap” is to take the panel off of your electrical box and take a look.  Do NOT do this if you do not know what you are doing.  Any licensed electrician can do this for you and let you know what is going on in there.

As for fixing a “double tap”, hire a licensed electrician to take a look and they can let you know your options.  Sometimes it is fine, and sometimes they may need to add a new breaker to correct it.

For more info or to talk about Home Inspections contact at Knoxinspect.com

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You are ready to buy a new home.  You have gone to the mortgage guy. You got all the papers you needed. You waited for an answer.  They needed more paperwork? Seriously? I don’t know where my 3 year old W-2 is?  Send in more information.  Wait some more. You got the money! You are pre-approved. Yay! Lets celebrate with some drinks and go on Zillow for 4 hours!  OK time to find a real estate agent.  Which one though? Ok got one we are ready to look at houses.  Where do we want to live? How many bedrooms? Can we have a garage? What about taxes? How much space will we need in the future? This weekend there are some open houses we can go to.  How many houses did you look at? Five? Fifteen?  This is the one we must have this house.  Our agent says we need to get an offer in fast.  Let’s do it.  How much do we offer?  Higher or lower?  What is the market value?  Will they accept our offer?  The phone rings… they accepted your offer!  Congratulations!  Now what???

You have made all of these decisions and completed everything so far and it has been a long long process.  Do not make a vital mistake and SKIP a Home Inspection.  You have researched everything and talked with your agent about the house and you feel confident in your decision.  Maybe there are a few issues that you have seen in the house that you know about and have a plan to fix or replace, maybe there are no issues that you can see.  What if it’s a new house?

The home inspection is the most important part of the entire home buying process.  Skipping this step can cost you major money and headaches down the road if there are any issues with the house you buy.  A lot of times the small details that can indicate an issue are missed by the buyers and even the sellers that have lived in the home for a long time.

I will not speak for all Home Inspectors because they are all different and do things their own way.  I can only tell you how I operate an inspection for my clients.  I will get into different things that I look for in each home in separate blogs to come soon so for now I will just focus on what I do for each of my clients.

When you call me I will first ask you a few questions about yourself.  Are you selling or buying? Congratulations you are buying a home!  What can you tell me about it?  If you can send over the listing that is the best and I can get you an accurate price quicker.  If you don’t have the listing not a problem.  I will just ask a few more questions and I can get you an estimate immediately.

I will then send you over a standard pre-inspection agreement for you to review and sign.  Every client must read and sign this, it benefits all parties.  This agreement covers the entire process of the home inspection.  It states what I will and will not inspect and has a lot more information about the inspection process for you to learn about.

Finally we will schedule a date and time that works for you and your agent.  I am very flexible with my scheduling and also schedule your time as quickly as possible.  There are almost always “inspection clauses” written into the home buying agreement and it has a time limit on it.  Each one is different but it is normally 7-14 days.  That means you have that set amount of time to hire an inspector and get the inspection done.  You can also have other professionals come in and look at the house in this time too.  Maybe you want to update all of the floors and electrical fixtures after closing, you can have a contractor and electrician come in and give you an estimate during this time too.

At the time of your inspection we will review the agreement and go over the pricing.  Once that is done and signed I work for you.  I work for ONLY you.  I do not work for your agent, or the listing agent.  I will go through the entire house with you and answer any questions that you have.  We will go from the exterior and move from the ground up, then move to interior and go from the basement to the attic and everywhere in between.  You can ask as many or as few questions as you like.  I will give you my honest opinion on everything.  I will tell you like it is.  If I don’t like the look of the fastenings on the deck I will tell you.  If I really like your stand by generator or the extra insulation in the attic I will tell you that too.  I will tell you the good, the bad and the ugly.  I want you to know as much as possible about your potential new home before I leave.

I will not leave until I have seen everything necessary and have answered all of your questions.  I have had agents in the past try and rush me along and finish early but like I said, I don’t work for them.  I do my best to get each inspection done in 2-3 hours.  Each house is different and each customer is different so there is no real set time for each inspection.  Some go smoother than others and some might take a little longer.

I will take some notes and I will take hundreds of pictures.  All of the information that I find during the inspection will be in your personal report that I will start working on as soon as I get back to the office.  It takes a few more hours for me to finish it and then I will email it over to you, and your agent if you want as soon as it’s done.  Your report can be long, sometimes a hundred pages or so, but it is all together in one easy to read PDF file.  There is a table of contents so you can click on each system and jump to that part of the report.  The most important issues will be at the end in the “General Summary”.

From here it is up to you and your agent to discuss any of the issues that may have come up in the report.  Say for example that there is a leak in the attic or a faulty electric circuit branch.  My report can be used in negotiations with the home owner.  Do you want these issues fixed prior to closing?  Or do you want to fix them yourself and have the cost deducted from the total price of the home?  These are issues that your Real Estate agent will help you with.  Reference back to the pictures in your Inspection Report for any repairs that are made so you can see the before and afters to ensure the work was done properly.

I am not done working for my clients when I email them over their report.  I am available to answer any questions they may have anytime.  There are so many things to look for in your new home that you might forget something and then remember it later.  No problem, give me a call and we can talk about it.  For example:

“Hey Riley, what is a ‘double tap’?  It’s on page 62 of my report, I know we talked about it but can you tell me more?”

“Which way does my filter go on the furnace?  I see the arrow but I forgot which way it’s supposed to point?

“My Radon air test results came back and it is high.  What do I do now?”

I am available to help out anytime just give me a call or email.  I will also do follow up inspection or just inspect an area that you are concerned with, just ask.  For more information contact me at Knoxinspect.com

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